Tuning questions

About two weeks ago I started thinking about getting one of my replicas tuned. At this moment the MP5K and mG36 are full-stock (I mean the gearbox, not the body, bipod, battery and other stuff). AUG has the "silent" set installed, more info can be found in the post about the silenced AUG. But it does have significantly better muzzle velocity than stock replicas, I believe it's got something aroung 350 fps. (Mamut's CA870 after his tuning has 410 fps on 0,2g BBs and 380 fps on 0,3g -- meaning that the light BBs don't gain all the energy the power spring can give).

So I decided to put some money in my airsoft replica tuning.

Since MP5K cannot be used with battery larger than 1200mAh 9.6V (after small modification of some kind), I decided that MP5K will remain as it is now.

So the decision is to choose between tuning AUG and mG36. I wanted to get muzzle velocity around 420-430 fps. Tunned by ASGShop.pl both replicas are upgraded to this level by installing:

• M120 power spring
  
• super torque up gear set (Classic Army)
  
• reinforced bearing guide with bearing (Deep Fire)
  
• reinforced cylinder, cylinder and piston heads (the latter with bearing) and nozzle (Deep Fire).

Since AUG has already got both bearing guide, gear set and the bore-up cylinder set installed the tuning will eventually be only to put power spring inside. I have the Classic Army 170% power spring (I got it free of charge when buying G36) so it seems that this entire tuning will be for free (only the costs of installing all the parts...).

Later I decided that I will not put money in AUG. Why? I am afraid that the battery I have (8,4V 1200mAh) will not be enough to "fuel" this replica.

So I decided that I'll send my mG36 to ASGShop and order the 420-430 tuning. But instead ot all the reinforced cylinder-piston parts, I'll install the bore-up. It should cost similar amount of money but I believe I'll gain few more fps. Addiotionally I'll send them back the barrel I ordered and ask them to send me the one that'll fit (more about barrel troubles is written in mG36 phase III upgrade - day one.

mG36 - one step back

I wrote couple of days ago (in post MG36 phase III upgrade, day one) that the barrel I could not be properly attached to the rest od the replica. What I wanted to express is that there's one part of hopup chamber that holds the barrel to the chamber which doesn't fit because the barrel has notch in different place that the original one.

I removed that barrel on saturday and installed the original one, that's why I titled this post "one step back". :)

Yesterday I had my first chance to test the replica during airsoft game. We played it inside one of abandoned tractor factory buildings. What I noticed yesterday:
- the replica is now better balanced since the heavy battery is now installed inside the stock,
- the stock cannot be folded because of the battery iside (that's why the 3300 mAh battery for this stock has different cell setup).

Here's a photo of my replica at it's current state of upgrade.

From G36 and its m...

By the way -- I just noticed why the stock had different connector on the cable, that's because the battery had the same T-type plug. I wonder why they couldn't use the standard small or large plug?

Yesterday I also got a chance to attach the C-magazine to my replica. See below...

From G36 and its m...

One of the guys had the G36 with STAR grenade launcher and that magazine. The grenade launcher looked nice but the effect of launching all the BBs inside was...poor (in my humble opinion).

mG36 phase 2.66

Phase 2 ²/₃ done. I attached the battery stock today. My father borrowed for me the proper hex key, 1.5 mm wide. On the following photo you can see the stock in it's fully-retracted position.

From G36 and its m...

Here you can see the hex key, the hex screw and the pin with the notch that didn't allow me to remove it without unscrewing the screw.

From G36 and its m...

I also put the wires inside the replica's body, above the gearbox. It was not easy since there's no much free space. Two photos below show the wires under the magazine socket and as seen near the hinge between body and stock.

From G36 and its m...

From G36 and its m...

mG36 phase III upgrade - day one

Today I decided that I'll install the parts I receieved yesterday, ordered earlier this week (stock, barrel), the sealed nozzle I bought few months ago and a 170% Classic Army spring I got with my replica.

I decided that the first thing to replace will be the stock because that was my main purchase. I tried to remove the original stock in order to attach my new purchase. I didn't have the proper hex key to remove the hinge. So the stock will have to wait for it's turn.

This was not a good day for the G36 tuning. First of all I didn't have all the tools required for such a work and I ordered parts that didn't fit my replica well. ;)

Since I removed the gearbox and magazine socket to see how to attach the stock wiring to the gearbox (I still have no f--king idea!) I had an opportunity to remove the inner barrel and install the precise one. So I removed the outer and inner barrel and the entire metal part that holds the hopup together. I dismantled that part and the hopup itself. When I got my hands on the barrel and compared it to the one I bought (designed for M14, not G36!) I saw that it has the vertical incision (that holds the barrel in place and doesn't allow any motion in axial direction) was in different place. This means that the barrel is not properly connected to the rest of the replica.

Without having the stock installed I didn't want to replace the inner parts of the gearbox - i.e. nozzle and power spring. This is because I wanted to have first the 9.6V battery installed which I can't install without the stock.

Parts to mG36 phase III arrived

Yesterday I got the parts I ordered -- precise barrel and battery stock. Too bad I don't know how to connect the wiring to the stock.